French active-ingredient producer Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed to address a shortfall in ferritinophagy, the mechanism that governs the controlled release of iron to cells.
A modelling study on menopausal skin
Silab says a new modelling study on menopausal skin showed that ferritinophagy is deficient during this life stage. Because the process is impaired, less iron is available to skin cells in a usable form, which the manufacturer links to premature cutaneous aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging. Ultraviolet radiation is described as aggravating the situation: UV exposure is said to promote the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, releasing iron in large, uncontrolled quantities and generating substantial oxidative stress.
How the active is positioned
Metallomia is claimed to counteract these effects by relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin. In Silab's account, the ingredient facilitates the supply of iron and re-activates the principal epidermal functions. It is also presented as reducing iron/ferritin complexes, which the company says limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. Through this targeted mechanism, metallo-aging is described as significantly reduced.
Volunteer observations
The manufacturer reports the following results from studies on volunteers:
- Among Caucasian volunteers, skin was described as revitalised from day 14, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion.
- Among Asian volunteers, pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days.
- When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation, and redness was limited within the hours following exposure.
These are outcomes reported by the manufacturer.
Marshmallow root and a traced supply chain
For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has established a traced supply chain with French partners; the supply has been validated against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is a patented active recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin, at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab states that the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, that its natural origin content is 100% under ISO 16128, and that it meets international cosmetics regulations, including those of Europe, the United States, China and Japan.